Finally returned from Newfoundland last night. The trip back is a story in itself. We arrived at the St. John’s airport at 9:10 a.m. for a flight which was scheduled to depart at 10:45 a.m. The flight was delayed until 1:45 p.m. due to fog in Halifax, which is where CanJet’s fleet is located. I spoke to a couple of blokes from Global Television who were also stranded, and it turns out this had been going on since Tuesday. The fog wouldn’t be a problem, they said, but the Halifax airport was in the middle of upgrading the instruments on the runways that are used to help aircraft land and takeoff during foggy conditions. Bad weather and bad timing, in other words.
So we sat around waiting for our delayed flight, playing cards and swapping the sections of the Saturday newspaper. Then we found out our flight was being cancelled and we would have to rebook for another flight, which may also end up being cancelled if the conditions didn’t improve. So we get booked onto a flight for 4:00 p.m. Meanwhile, all of the other flights that are either coming out of or going into Halifax are being cancelled throughout the day. The airport begins to get progressively more crowded as people come for their scheduled flights only to find out that those flights no longer exist. And the fog held sway over all. (That’s an Edgar Allan Poe reference, btw. I haven’t touched a computer or written a thing in nine days, so you’ll forgive me while I get my brain back into gear.)
So as 4 p.m. draws ever closer, the announcer comes back on to say that our flight has been delayed until 5:00 p.m., then 6:00 p.m., and finally 7:00 p.m. We’re annoyed but not that upset; after all, our flight hasn’t been cancelled. Not yet, we all think but don’t say for fear that saying those two words aloud will cause it to happen. We eat dinner around 6:00 p.m. in the airport café. I have the hot turkey sandwich which I surprisingly finish. Most of the morning I spent nibbling toast and exploring the airport’s various bathrooms as I dealt with an unexpected (though not undeserved) Canada Day hangover. Anyway, our flight finally boarded around 7:45 p.m., and after a stopover in Moncton, a very nice looking city from what I could see from the tarmac in the dark, we flew back to Toronto.
Eleven hours in an airport, man. And here’s another tip: don’t fly on a plane if you’re hungover. The cabin pressure does strange and horrible things to your sinuses. If you’d like more details, check out David Cronenberg’s Scanners and you might have an idea of how I felt on the three-and-a-half hour flight.
But what about the vacation itself, you ask? Well, it was probably the best one I’ve ever taken in my life. Incredible weather, great company, and incredible sights — all of which were captured on almost 20 rolls of film, about 440 photographs all told, which will be posted on the website next weekend probably. We drove all over the island, starting in St. John’s, the oldest city in North America, north across the Avalon Peninsula, to the town of Twilingate on the northeast coast. Went for a boat ride, didn’t see any whales, but saw our first lighthouse. Spent the night, enjoyed a nice fish-and-chips dinner and my first (but not the last, oh no) bottle of Quidi Vidi Honey Brown beer, a brew available only on the island. The following day took us across the island west-to-east, through Gander, to the Gros Morne National Park, where we stayed in yet another small village, Rocky Harbour. Saw another lighthouse, took the Western Brook Pond boat tour (three hours between two huge cliffs with waterfalls and a very grumpy-looking American family), and several moose sightings (I believe the final count was 10 moose, 1 caribou). The day after that was our longest in the car as we drove all the way back across the island to Bonavista, the largest town we’d been to that point (excluding St. John’s) and the original landing point of John Cabot way
back when (we saw a life-sized replica of his boat, the Matthew). We stayed at an ocean-side cabin, ate the greasiest food I’ve ever had in my life, and skipped rocks on the shore. I got a major soaker after taunting the ocean (i.e. shaking my ass at the waves and saying something to the effect of “Try and get me from here, ocean!”). The day before we left Bonavista we drove down to Trinity East and went on the best hike of my life (as the pictures will prove). Again, we frolicked on the shore, and again I got a soaker, a much bigger one this time, soaking both shoes and my pants up to about mid-calf. Good times. Leaving Bonavista, we drove back down to the Avalon Peninsula for the final three days of our trip, which we spent in St. John’s. We visited Signal Hill, site of the first trans-Atlantic wireless message, and the lighthouse at Cape Spear, the eastern most tip of North America. We visited the latter at sunrise (4:30 a.m.!) and I captured what I suspect are some pretty excellent pictures. The remainder of our time was spent eating Newfoundland pizza, drinking Quidi Vidi (we also visited the brewery), and three whale-watching excursions (we saw whales every time, and the last time they were close enough to touch), during which we also saw puffins (which some tourists call “poof-ins,” very odd) and dolphins, the latter we were told is an extremely rare sight. No icebergs, but who cares? We saw all the wonderful wildlife Newfoundland has to offer, went on incredible hikes and boat tours, and capped the whole trip off by spending Canada Day on Newfoundland’s George Street, where we stumbled upon a hitherto unknown Northern Pikes concert. They were incredible, playing songs off their new album as well as the favorites (”Teenland,” “Girl with a Problem,” “She Ain’t Pretty”). The perfect ending to a perfect trip. Minus the aforementioned airport adventure.
But now it’s back to work. I read a lot of Alistair MacLeod while on vacation, and I’m committed to finishing “Leaves Brown,” my first Cape Breton supernatural tale, and “The House on Ashley Avenue,” my haunted Rosedale house novella. Both are already close to finished; they just need that final push. It was great to be in Newfoundland, but it’s also good to be back … and writing.